The Ultimate Bra Fit Guide: Why Your Bra Still Doesn't Fit (And How to Fix It!)

● “If I wear an underwire bra, the wire curve digs into my sides.” (wide roots)

● “The wireless bra I tried gave me weird quad-boob because it cut into the center of my chest.” (tall roots)

● “The straps are always too long. Even on the shortest setting, they’re slightly loose.” (high set)

● “Everything pokes me in the armpits.” (high set)

You’ve done all the hard work: you know your size, you understand your basic breast shape… but bras that should fit still don’t. What’s going on? The answer often lies in breast root—specifically, root width and height, and how your breasts sit on your chest. These factors can make a huge difference in comfort, support, and appearance.

Let’s break it down into key dimensions, with common pain points and solutions:

Narrow Roots vs. Wide Roots
Tall Roots vs. Short Roots
Close-Set vs. Wide-Set
High Set vs. Low Set
How to Identify Your Breast Roots

1. Narrow Roots vs. Wide Roots: The Foundation of Your Breasts

Breast root width refers to how far your breast tissue extends across your chest, horizontally. The widest roots can extend from chest centre to the back, encompassing the underarm area. The narrowest roots we have fitted are just about 2 inches across.

Wide Roots

Common Issue: If you have wide roots, a bra with a too-narrow underwire can dig into your breast tissue, causing discomfort and pushing breast tissue out to the sides, creating spillage. For larger breasts, this uneven pressure can even deform the underwire, shortening the bra's lifespan.

Solution: Wireless bras are an ideal choice for wide roots. Underwires apply pressure in a narrow area, which can cause marks and spillage. In contrast, wireless bras use a wider, more flexible fabric to gently gather your entire breast into the cup. To get a better, more lifted shape, remember to scoop and swoop when putting on your bra.
Product recommendation: For a more defined shape: Look for a wireless bra with side support. For maximum comfort: A wireless T-shirt bra is an excellent option, especially if you don't need much shaping.

Narrow Roots

Common Issue: A bra with a too-wide underwire will often leave a wire mark on the outside of your breast, sometimes even extending to your back. If it's not overtly uncomfortable, this issue is generally not a major concern.

For larger busts with narrow roots: Try bras with deep cups but a band that isn't too wide.
For all narrow roots: Consider seamless wireless bras made from a stretchy fabric. The prominent part of your bust will lift the flexible cup, allowing the side panels to sit more flush against your body compared to an underwire bra.

2. Tall Roots vs. Short Roots: The Vertical Coverage

Breast root height refers to how high your breast tissue extends on your chest, vertically. Root height affects which bra shapes work for you.

Tall Roots

Common Issue: The biggest issue for tall roots is the dreaded quadboob, where breast tissue is squeezed out over the top of the cup edge. This often happens even in full-coverage bras, as the cup fabric isn't tall enough to contain your tissue, leading to an unflattering bulge.

Solution: You need bras with a more open cup design to accommodate your breast tissue without cutting in. Look for styles with an open, taller neckline.
Balcony or plunge bras: Great options as they provide an open cup that can contain the height of your breast tissue.
Full-coverage bras: If you prefer a full-coverage style, choose bras with a cup panel that starts higher, closer to the collarbone. This provides the necessary coverage to prevent spillage.

Short Roots

Common Issue: You might have gaping at the top of the cup, especially in full-coverage or high-profile styles. This is often called "strap gap" and is caused by cups that are simply too tall for your breast shape.
Solution: You need bras with shorter, shallower cups that fit the lower profile of your breast.

3. Close-Set vs. Wide-Set: The Distance Between Your Breasts

The space between your breasts, or the lack thereof, is a major factor in bra comfort. You can often tell which category you fall into by the fit issues you experience.

Notice: wide set and wide roots are not the same thing. Think of "set" as where your boobs sit on your body. Root width/height is their "footprint." Wide set means you have space in between your breasts. Wide root just means your root is wider than average.

Wide-Set Breasts

Common Issue: Wide-set breasts naturally have a gap between them. While this is not an issue for larger busts who can wear most bra styles, it can be a source of discomfort for smaller busts. In these cases, the underwire of a traditional bra often presses uncomfortably against the sternum.
Solution & Product Recommendation: The best bra styles depend on your bust size.
For larger busts: A plunging neckline and racerback straps are excellent choices. The plunging style is ideal for accommodating the space between your breasts, while the racerback design pulls the straps together for secure support.
For smaller busts: Bralettes and other wireless bras are often the most comfortable option. These styles don't have a rigid underwire that can press against the sternum, allowing the fabric to conform to your natural shape.

Close-Set Breasts

Common Issue: With close-set breasts, the biggest challenge is finding a bra that creates separation. A major issue is the uniboob effect, which is especially common with wireless bras.
Solutions & Product Recommendations:
For larger busts: Look for low-gore underwire bras. A low-set gore sits well between close-set breasts, providing the necessary separation without a wide, uncomfortable panel.
For smaller busts: Finding a bra that fits correctly can be a challenge. We recommend exploring Japanese bra brands, as they often specialize in designs with narrower gores and cup shapes that are well-suited for close-set or petite frames.

4. High Set vs. Low Set

Do note that how high or low-set you are also plays a factor (where the bottom of your breast root sits relative to the torso).

High Set

Common Issue: With high-set breasts, the underwire of many bras can poke into your armpits because it extends too high up the side of your torso. Additionally, bra straps often need to be tightened to an extreme degree and can still slip off your shoulders, as they may be set too wide for your body shape.
For wire discomfort: Look for bras with lower side panels (or "wings") to prevent the wire from poking into your armpit. Wireless bras are also an excellent option, as they eliminate the rigid wire altogether.
For slipping straps: Halter and racerback styles are highly recommended. Both designs pull the straps inward toward your neck or back, which keeps them securely on your shoulders.

Low Set

Common Issue: With low-set breasts, the underwire and cups of a bra often sit too high on your body, causing a lack of support and an improper fit. The straps can also feel too long, making it difficult to get the necessary lift.
Solution: The most important feature to look for is fully adjustable bra straps. This allows you to shorten the straps and customize the fit, ensuring the bra sits correctly on your chest and provides the proper lift and support.

5. How to Identify Your Breast Roots

Visual Test: Support breasts in front of mirror; root line is where breast meets chest.
Lean Test: Lean forward 90°; observe where tissue falls relative to nipples.
Try Bras: Fit issues reveal root width/height—gaps, spillage, wires digging, strap issues.