Ever wonder why two people with the same bra size can look so different in the same bra? It’s not just about the numbers on the tag; it’s about your unique breast shape. Finding a bra that truly fits and feels comfortable depends on understanding three key factors: projection, fullness and roots.
We've already covered how to measure your bra size and how breast shape and breast roots affect your fit. Now, the next step is understanding projection and fullness. These two factors are what make the difference between a bra that just "fits" and one that feels truly made for you.
What is Breast Projection?
Projection describes how far your breasts extend from your chest wall. It’s not about breast volume or cup size — you can have a small cup size and be projected, or a large cup size and be shallow. Think of it this way: two women can have the same breast volume, but one's breasts might be shaped like a dinner plate (shallow), while the other's are shaped more like a drinking glass (projected).
Shallow Breasts
If you have shallow breasts, your breast tissue is spread out over a wider area on your chest. They tend to be broader and "flatter" in profile, even if they're a large cup size.
Signs you have shallow breasts:
- You often have space at the top of a bra cup, especially in bras with horizontal seams.
- The bra size that fits your measurements seems much larger than you expected.
- The underwire might dig in uncomfortably at your armpits.
Best bras for shallow breasts:
- The cup has only vertical seams, not horizontal ones.
- The top edge of the cup is as close to horizontal as possible.
- The top edge is "open" (vertical) rather than "closed" (curving inward toward the body).
Projected Breasts
Projected breasts have a narrower base and extend further forward from the chest. They have a "deeper" profile and are often spaced closer together.
Signs you have projected breasts:
- The center gore (the part of the bra between the cups) "floats" or doesn't tack against your sternum.
- You experience spillage over the top of the cups, even if the bra is the right size.
- Your breasts look like they are being flattened in a bra, creating a "uniboob" effect.
Best bras for projected breasts: Look for bras with deep enough cups. Bras with side support panels are also an excellent option, as they help push the breast tissue forward.
What is Breast Fullness?
Fullness refers to how your breast tissue is distributed, particularly in relation to your nipple. You can determine your fullness vertically (top vs. bottom) and horizontally (center vs. side).
Vertical Fullness (Full on Top vs. Full on Bottom)
To find your vertical fullness, lean over at a 90-degree angle and look at your breasts from the side.
- Full on Top (FoT): Most of your breast tissue is above your nipple.
- Full on Bottom (FoB): Most of your breast tissue is below your nipple.
- Even Fullness: Balanced amount of tissue above and below your nipple.
Full on Top (FoT)
For those with full-on-top breasts, bras with lace or tight top edges can cause a "double-boob" effect. Balconette or demi-cup styles, which have a more open top edge, are usually more flattering.
Full on Bottom (FoB)
Many common bra styles are designed for this shape. However, wearing a bra designed for full-on-top breasts can lead to gapping at the top of the cup.
Horizontal Fullness (Center-full vs. Side-full)
This describes whether your breast tissue is concentrated towards the center or the sides of your body. You can check this by gently lifting your breasts with your hands.
- Center-full: Tissue is concentrated towards the middle, often touching or close together.
- Side-full: Tissue is mostly on the sides, near your armpits, with a wider space between your breasts.
- Even Fullness: Tissue is evenly distributed from side to side.
If you are center-full, you may find that some plunge bras don’t provide enough coverage in the middle, while side-full breasts may require bras with wider-set underwires.
Putting It All Together
Identifying your breast shape is a journey, not a destination. Your shape can change over time due to weight fluctuations, pregnancy, or age. The more bras you try, the more you'll learn about what works for you. Remember, there’s no "right" or "wrong" breast shape — every shape is normal and beautiful, and every shape deserves a bra that fits and feels great.
